Coral Spawning on Saipan

Four days after the July full moon! Get your cameras ready that's tomorrow!

It's that time of year again! Time for mother nature to take the spotlight, front and center but first a few local links you may wish to check out in preparation:

Peter Houk, DEQ marine biologist extraordinaire has written a great piece in Beach Road Magazine as well as in the Saipan Tribune this past week.
The Marianas Dive Forum has a thread going discussing the upcoming event and with any luck a few of our members will be posting pictures and video of the event as it happens or as quickly as they can get dried off and download some pictures and video!
There are also a couple of other links you many want to check out if interested in reading a little more about how corals regenerate themselves. This one from the University of Guam, and this one from our friends in Palau where the corals spawn following the April full moon. Here's a link from the BBC with its own video.

Unfortunately, due to circumstances beyond my control I will not be in the water filming this years event. In fact I won't even be in the CNMI! Trust me I'm not happy about it. Last year shortly after the coral spawning Marianas Dive was born in part because many divers out here felt not enough information about Saipan's diving was made available for people to take advantage of. One of the things we pointed to was how the coral spawn could occur under our noses with very few divers knowing about it or knowing exactly when it would occur. Many people expressed frustration with our marine biologists from the government agencies for not giving this event the attention it deserves and a proper "heads up" to local and international dive communities.

Well not true this year! I'm happy to say, this year at least, it is unlikely many divers will miss this spectacle from a lack of being in the water. The information has gotten out there and I have no doubt, it is at least in part, due to the activities of this group - another feather in the cap for all of us at Marianas Dive. Now lets just hope mother nature does her thing as predictably as she's done year after year and the battery packs on all those cameras hold enough juice to capture the action in detail. Did I mention just how frustrated I am not being there to do my part in bringing this spectacle to your computer screen!

At the moment when you do a Google search for "coral spawn Saipan" the top hit is (sorry Greg) a very poor video from Greg Morretti. He'll be the first to admit he was just happy to be there last year and capture anything at all since right before the dive he lost what I recall to be his second camera in about as many months. He captured this on one he borrowed at the last minute from someone else on his dive boat.



Here's another link to a Youtube video that comes second on the list for that Google search. When I saw it the irony of where the feed comes from and what large marine park they discuss in the piece was not lost on me. Hmmmmmm what do you suppose next years news report on KSPN could look like given mother natures predictability and the possibility of us having our own internationally recognized marine monument. Please, for all of you against the proposed marine monument concept WATCH THIS VIDEO!

Pew's Role Defined

I think one of the biggest issues in the area of the Marianas Marine Monument concept has been the role of the Pew environment group. It is true (at least in my opinion) that the organization has not done a great job of bringing this concept to the people in a manner that would be considered appropriate by most folks in this neck of the woods. In particular the underestimation of resources required on the ground and the need for "back room politics" comes to mind. Despite what most would consider a large financial capacity at their fingertips the job of coordinating and pursuing public education and support for the concept has fallen on the shoulders of a very small team, the local Pew coordinators Angelo Villagomez and Laurie Peterka. Over the past number of months many (including myself) have pointed to Angelo's approach as one of the factors behind some of the resistance encountered especially from that of local government officials and members of the indigenous populations. However, in all fairness to Angelo and Laurie the blame cannot be pinned entirely on them. Yes mistakes have been made but they have been up against a large, well-oiled machine in the form of WESPAC and pro-fishing forces. These lobbyist are well trenched in this region of the world and their capabilities are very real and very well designed to head off any attempt at reducing their own jurisdiction and control. Second, in some cases they (Angelo & Laurie) have been unable to react to issues in a constructive and timely manner partially because of what I can only characterize as corporate bureaucracy and misunderstanding from the top as to "how things work here in the CNMI".

At the heart of matter for many opposed to the monument concept is their opposition to Pew and the approach taken in bringing this idea forward. That is why I was pleased to read Jay Nelson's special to the Tribune in today's paper. I think it clearly shows that Pew's role revolves around bringing this concept to the people and that their motivation behind wanting to establish the monument comes down to a dedication for conservation of marine resources and ecosystems world wide.

Now, hopefully, people can look past the fact that an outsider has brought this opportunity to our door step and move forward in examining the benefits and pitfalls that may exist. In doing so it is my hope that our local government will ultimately do what is best for the people of the CNMI and ask for a seat at the table when developing the declaration and subsequent rules and regulations of the monument. If the Federal government does in fact pursue this designation Pew will essentially disappear and it will be up to the local population to develop a proposal that makes sense for the residents of the CNMI.

Here is Jay Nelson's article from the Tribune.

The Pew Charitable Trusts: Committed to ocean conservation

By JAY NELSON
Special to the Saipan Tribune

Editor's Note: Jay Nelson is director of the Pew Environment Group's Global Ocean Legacy, a project to protect some of the world's most spectacular marine environments.

Considerable recent press has been devoted to plans to establish a world-class marine park in the waters around the three northernmost Mariana Islands - Asuncion, Maug and Uracus. Letters, editorials and opinions have focused on both the benefits of the idea and on the non-profit organization, the Pew Charitable Trusts, which believes such a program would not only benefit the Mariana's marine environment and economy, but would also greatly enhance the reputation of the Mariana Islands as an environmentally friendly tourist destination.

The participation of people in CNMI in this very public discussion has been useful and healthy and will hopefully continue.

Worldwide, the oceans and their marvelous ecosystems are in trouble from global warming, pollution, overfishing and a host of other problems. But there are some places, like the Mariana Islands, where people still have a chance to preserve their cultural heritage and leave a wonderful environmental legacy for their children, while at the same time creating jobs and revenue that can improve the local standard of living.

Any new idea, however, is bound to stir interest and questions. So what of the Pew Charitable Trusts itself?

Pew, through its environmental arm, the Pew Environment Group, has launched a global effort to improve scientific understanding of the oceans, prevent the continued decline of fisheries to the benefit both fish and fishermen, and promote the preservation of particularly spectacular locations that have yet to suffer the devastating impacts of much of the world's marine environment.

Our efforts to encourage the establishment of a marine park in the Marianas are very much in keeping with our work around the world. Pew is an independent, non-profit organization governed by the same set of U.S. laws that apply to other charitable or non-profit groups, such as the Red Cross. We operate completely independent of government and business, although we try and work with both whenever possible. Moreover, as a non-profit, we make no money from our charitable work.

Pew has been a leader in advancing policies that improve lives, in Philadelphia where it is based, and throughout the world. Indeed, we are one of the most well-known, independent, non-profit organizations in the United States, running programs relating to education, culture, public health, the arts and the environment, among others. Our polling and information work is considered to be amongst the highest quality and most influential of its kind in the world.

For two decades the Pew Environment Group has been a major force in promoting sound conservation policies in the United States and, in recent years, internationally. The Environment Group is staffed by respected senior scientists, attorneys and policy specialists, all of whom have had significant prior experience in nonprofit advocacy, government and the private sector.

The Pew Environment Group focuses on reducing the scope and severity of three major global environmental problems: dramatic changes to the Earth's climate caused by the increasing concentration of global warming pollution in the atmosphere; erosion of large wilderness ecosystems that contain many of the world's rapidly vanishing plants and animals; and damage to the world's marine environment.

What led us to our work in the Mariana Islands was a number of factors. First, the environment in the waters around the northernmost islands has been little impacted by fishing or other extractive activities and is relatively healthy, containing some of the world's most unique geological features and ecology. Second, there is virtually no fishing in this area because it is so remote, and has never had the concentration of high-value fish that would make it a productive commercial fishing area. Third, it contains a portion of the world's deepest marine canyon and a host of native species, plants and other marine organisms that make it ecologically unique. And fourth, establishment of a marine park would actually benefit CNMI's economy through increased tourism and government support, in addition to generating jobs and revenue.

In the Mariana Islands, as in other areas of world where we are encouraging the establishment of marine reserves, we work with governments and the public to analyze the potential environmental and economic benefits of protecting these remarkable places.

The area being proposed for protection in CNMI is a spectacular complex of coral reefs, undersea volcanoes and deep ocean waters along a portion of the famed Mariana Trench. We believe this area will best serve CNMI both economically and culturally if it is conserved for education and research, for tourism and for future generations. We have sought to collect and disseminate information on the significance of this area and to bring this information to the attention of federal and local officials, as well as to better inform the people of the Mariana Islands about the area's natural values.

As part of our assessment of what a marine monument might mean to CNMI, three months ago we asked a respected economist at the University of Guam, Dr. Tom Iverson, to study the potential costs and benefits of such a designation. Dr. Iverson calculated that a marine monument would produce up to 400 new jobs and annually generate $10 million in new spending and $14 million in sales. He identified a number of potential benefits that would be created from a monument, many of which are related to the visitor industry and tourism marketing.

The establishment of parks or wildlife reserves, either on land or in the sea, is often a controversial process. There are always some individuals who do not believe that special natural areas should be protected from activities such as industrial fishing, mining, logging, and that these areas offer more value to people if their resources can be extracted for commercial gain. History, however, has generally proven this to not be true. The great parks of the world, places like Yellowstone or Yosemite in the western United States, or the spectacular game parks of Africa, provide far more benefit to people as parks than they ever would have if left unprotected. Protecting the waters around the three northernmost islands as a marine park will create much greater economic value for CMNI than commercial fishing or other extractive activities are every likely to produce. And at the same time, one of the world's most spectacular oceans areas will be protected for the culture and the people of the Marianas and their children and grandchildren as well as for the rest of the world.

Quite simply, we have approached the Mariana Islands as part of our overall mission to protect and conserve natural resources. In doing so, we seek to create a healthier and more sustainable environment for both people and nature. Our goal for the CNMI is to be a constructive advocate for an environmental opportunity that will not only benefit the local and global marine environment, but also the people who live here.

The decision on whether or not to designate a monument can only be made by government. If a marine monument is established, Pew will have no role in its management, and receive no compensation or benefit other than the satisfaction of knowing that a portion of the world's marine heritage is protected for future generations, while at the same time bringing certain economic benefits to local people.

Designation of an internationally recognized national-park-of-the-sea in the waters around the three northernmost islands of the Marianas will protect a portion of one of the world's premier marine ecosystems. It also will focus favorable global attention on the Mariana Islands, promote local tourism-including ecotourism-and establish CNMI's reputation as a global leader in marine conservation. As one of 15 protected areas within the U.S. National Marine Sanctuary Program, CNMI also would be able to take advantage of federal dollars devoted to public education and conservation. We believe this is one of those fortunate circumstances where conservation and economic development can work together for the benefit of both.

We encourage you to investigate this opportunity for yourself and look closely at its cultural and economic benefits. We look forward to continuing to work with the business community, your elected leaders and the public on this proposal.

Coral Triangle Meet the Trench Monument

I wrote the following way back on October 14th 2007, long before I'd heard about the Mariana Trench Monument concept. There is a link to the original post here but, for those of you too lazy for an extra click I've cut and pasted it below. I thought it appropriate to look at this again given the Tribune article today anouncing the upcoming release of a Pew sponsored scientific study.

At the end of my original Coral Triangle Post I've taken a moment to address a few things that might relate to the marine monument currently being debated in the community.

Here's my original post on the Coral Triangle. By the way, "Coral Triangle" remains one of the biggest search engine key word searches people use to get to this site.

CORAL TRIANGLE

No, we're not trying to copy Bermuda and their famous triangle that seems to take planes, vessels and lives without warning.

No, in fact, we're talking about a region of the earths ocean described by the World Wild Life Fund (WWF) with this in mind...

"No other place on Earth is as rich and varied in marine life as the Coral Triangle. Spanning Malaysia, Indonesia, the Philippines, Papua New Guinea, the Solomon Islands, Fiji and Northern Australia, this extraordinary expanse of ocean covers some 5.7 million square kilometres. The Coral Triangle echoes the richness and diversity of the Amazon rain forest".

This map shows that most biodiversity occurs around Indoneisia and Papua New Guinea
However, the map below shows how the Northern Mariana Islands not only fall within the upper end of the triangle but they also establish a boundary line!
I realize the primary area of focus for the triangle is Indonesia and the surrounding countries but, it's important to note that we do sit within this important ecological zone.
We do in fact, contribute to the vast array of species this region accounts for. We have rare hard corals and other critters the scientific community recognizes as occurring here and perhaps no where else. In fact it was in my first year on Saipan that a group of researchers found 8 previously unnamed species of fish. See link here. Then on another survey this was a quote from the NOAA team after returning from the Northern Islands in 2003. See Tribune story here

“Many of these species are new records for these islands, as very few previous surveys have been conducted at most of these islands. Many species were also present in the size ranges at which they recruit from the plankton, or as very young juveniles,” the team said.

I think it's also important to note that in relative terms the scientific community has barely scratched the surface when it comes to surveying our vast waters especially up North. Who knows what else is out there just waiting to be discovered. We know there are plenty more dive sites around the Islands of Saipan, Tinian and Rota that are worth discovering and going to on a regular basis. We also know that divers have witnessed the mating of two different species of nudibranchs a phenomenon that was previously just a theory but now thanks to Harry (The Nudibranch whisperer) it's been documented. Bottom line, when we say we are privileged to dive in some of the most diverse waters of the world it is true!

Now, isn't it just a little more appealing to live in the triangle that breeds diversity rather than swallow up ships and planes like a giant black hole. Perhaps just one more advantage we have over our Caribbean counterparts!

Coral Triangle & Marianas Trench = Synergistic Marketing!

Like I say, those were the original thoughts I had on the triangle when I first became aware there was such a theoretical boundary. Now, throw in the concept of having an internationally recognized "Monument of the Sea" including the deepest part of the world and it's easy to see how potentially powerful such a marketing combination could be. A monument designation with all the hoopla that would come form the Bush administration announcement would instantly and effectively focus positive attention on us from around the world. With ensuing federal funding from the NOAA sanctuary program this beacon of light in the pacific would likely shine for many many years if not forever and glow ever stronger with time. The spotlight and funding couldn't possibly do anything but benefit our tourism industry and the scientific community.

Take a close look at the map. Have you ever tried to go on a vacation, diving or otherwise, to one of the remote islands of Indonesia. With the exception of perhaps Bali, it's not usually to encounter flight delays or planes that just don't show up for days. If you go, prepare for an adventure and be very pleased if your travel time is any where close to what it says on your itinerary.
For our largest tourist markets Indonesia represents long, multiple flights while we offer single non-stop daily flights from both Seoul and Tokyo. With fuel surcharges going up for all flights but particularly noticeable for long haul trips we can also offer a more affordable and convenient excursions to the "Amazon of the Sea" than perhaps anyone else in the region. Now, build a world class visitors center with information on specie diversity within the coral triangle and the untouched wonders of the deep and yes, they will come AND yes, they will spend their money!

From a purely scientific point of view there has to be something said for lying on the edge of even an arbitrary boundary. I once had to do a paper for an economics class based on what happens in communities where artificial boundaries exist. Mine was pretty easy as I lived close to the US / Canada boarder where the "line" actually meant large beautiful homes on one side and fields of very little development on the other. My point is, if the boundaries of the Trench monument can be maintained so as to allow an entire ecosystem withing the Coral Triangle to go untouched by things other than mother nature it should provide a nice baseline for years of comparison to other less protected areas outside the triangle. A scientests dream come true I would imagine, especially in a world without many baselines!

The Pew sponsored economic study released a few months ago touched on how a stable, long term marine protected area would bring long term sustainable dollars from increased research and scientific voyages. With increased research (and research dollars) who knows what else they'll find, but one thing is true, they'll probably find more with more trips and more minds looking into it all! New species, cures for diseases........

Ultimately, if the local people demand a seat at the table, with any and all governing bodies deemed necessary to develop and maintain the park, than control of how it is used and how it will benefit the people of the CNMI will remain tied to local interests. Without the seat at the table and an open dialogue there is the potential to A) risk loosing a significant long term opportunity that would grow the islands economy and preserve a resource for years to come or B) have the monument designated without local input leaving everyone scrambling to get the needed balance and local control that can only come with meaningful participation from local representation.

The benefits are real and at hand NOW!

Emergency First Response at Dive Sites

Ok, its been a while but, rest assured there are sound reasons why this blog has not been updated this month. First and foremost when your power goes out an average of 2 to 3 times a day for 2 to 4 hours each time something has to give. For me it has been this blog. Thanks CUC! Keep up the good work and everyone will leave island permanently!

Next I'd really like to suggest that Wespac has threatened my livelihood and thus stopped me from posting anything regarding the Marianas Marine Monument but, if I did it would have to be a well written joke. Fortunately they have not been able to change my opinion on the concept unlike many, many other people. Trust me there will be plenty more to come on this topic for sure!

So no, it's not Wespac's fault that posts have not been coming on a regular basis, it really just comes down to a lack of time since there is so much going on AND there has been a significant reduction in the ability to access a computer as a result of the power outages.

I intend to fill you in on some of the things that have happened over the past month in upcoming posts but right now I will start with a pretty exciting development that has taken months to put together.

State of the art First Aid Kits at Obyan, The Grotto and Lau Lau Bay.

A collaborative effort between The American Red Cross, G4S Security and Marianas Dive will soon see state of the art first aid kits available for use at 3 of our most popular Saipan shore dives. You may have read about this in last week’s tribune story here.
Self contained in one large pelican case, these units will include basic first aid materials, automatic external defibrillators (AEDs) and oxygen (O2) delivery units. The cases will be brought to Lau Lau Bay, Obyan and the Grotto each morning by G4S security personnel and returned to headquarters at the end of each day. Already trained in first aid including CPR, the security guards will receive additional training on AED's and O2 delivery prior to implementation.
In addition the Red Cross will begin training divers interested in updating their CPR as well as getting hands on training with the AED and O2 delivery units. The first training session will get underway this Wednesday evening.

The idea of bringing this life saving equipment to these popular beach dives was first discussed between myself and John Hirsh from the Saipan chapter of the Red Cross following a death of a Korean tourist at Lau Lau Bay in November 2007. I wrote about that incident here. The bottom line is no one can say for sure that having this medical equipment nearby would have saved her life BUT it very well could have.

It is reported that anywhere from 200 to 300 thousand Americans die of sudden cardiac arrest every year. It is also estimated up to 50,000 (1/4) of these deaths could have been prevented if someone had initiated the Cardiac Chain of Survival, and an automated external defibrillator (AED) had been available for immediate use at the time of the emergency.

With regards to diving, delivery of 100% oxygen is the treatment of choice for all SCUBA injuries involving suspected decompression sickness (DCS) or air embolism. As divers we are taught to administer O2 immediately (if available) should a diver describe symptoms that could possibly be related to these types of injuries. The key here is "when it is available". As a first line treatment this program ensures that divers who require it will receive O2 in a timely manner and therefore give them the best opportunity to survive.

It is hoped that ultimately these kits will never be used. However, having them, not only for divers but also for non-diving tourists and residents alike, represents a proactive approach to establishing the safest possible experience for those who are lucky enough to enjoy our unique seaside attractions.

This also sends a positive message to the international diving community and in some cases may be a factor in influencing a decision to come and dive here. In effect we are saying "we have our shit together and value your life" more than the few thousand dollars its taken the Red Cross to deliver the units and begin the training. The bottom line, "in the unlikely event" that something should go wrong we are now prepared to deal with it in the best manner possible and that is priceless to many who might wish to dive our waters or even walk up the stairs of the Grotto.

Island Locator Article Now On Line

I found out today that Alexie over at Island Locator makes available articles from her magazine on her blog. This months cover story is on NMC's President Carmen Fernandez. Here's a link to the September 2007 issue where you can read the full article on me and see the photographs of Eye Doctor extraordinaire Dr. Mark Robertson. I've also updated the Proud Parents post to include the article.

Bush Eyes Unprecedented Conservation Program - NPR Report

Today NPR is reporting that a move is afoot for President Bush to declare a series of marine monuments including the one being suggested here in the Northern Mariana Islands.

Like it or not, this is the beginning of some international press. I only hope it will be good, positive press for the CNMI.
I also take this as a step in the right direction. The CNMI has made it on a short list of places to be looked at and this, in my opinion, is a good thing. There are many benefits to the process moving forward even if, at the end of the day, the people of the CNMI determine they don't want it at this time.

Some will try to raise hairs on peoples backs by suggesting that Bush will do this even if the CNMI says no. I can only counter with this.....

I think it is highly unlikely he would do something that controversial since, by all accounts, he has a few other places lining up for his autograph. According to the NPR report Jack Sobel, a senior scientist at the Washington-based Ocean Conservancy confirms that among the specific criteria laid out by the White House was the need for areas where "they could do (it) without tremendous political blow back … [but] would have a conservation impact."

So for this to happen it must come from the people of the CNMI: the people who can see the benefits of such a designation and how it will improve the life of everyone who lives here or comes to visit for a week, a year or even a lifetime.
The administration is also quoted in the NPR report as saying public hearings will be held. Again, it is my belief that once the people of the CNMI see how they can have a seat at the table with the ability to make policy decisions, not only in drafting the proclamation but also with regard to the rules and regulations that will govern them, many of the fears being suggested will disappear.

To the average person here there will be much more upside to having a monument now than what is purely speculative with regards to commercial fishing and other resource extraction efforts some time in the distant future. Commercial fishing has a high likelihood of doing significant damage and the chance of any oil and gas, geothermal or magnesium module extraction occurring within the 200 mile US controlled waters is next to nil.

So if it happens, if the Bush administration does decide to take a serious look at the CNMI then I hope everyone will grab their chair and ask for a seat at the table, especially the Carolinian and Chamorro elders. Those that understand the ways of the past so that future generations can be sure they will be around for eternity. At this point, it seems the process is now with the White House administration which will sift through the various agencies and see if the Northern Mariana Islands are a place where resources will be spent to determine if it is possible to reach an agreement. Similarily the people of the CNMI owe it to themselves to take a look at this and use whatever is learned along the way as part of the path to their own plan should one be developed in the future or the White House comes calling again in 4 or 8 or 12 years......

A marine monument surrounding the 3 northernmost islands of Asuncion, Maug and Uracas can be a very good thing for the CNMI IF the people of the CNMI define what exactly that monument is. To those who really believe Bush will do this without your input then perhaps you should stand up and put your two cents in anyway so you can help determine exactly what the monument will look like should it become a reality.For more of my thoughts on this monument concept please click on the Northern Island Marine Monument tag / label below.

Maldives Set Record Tourist Numbers

I found this article while using the link referral program "Maldives Sees Unexpected Growth in Tourist in 2007 and 2008".

What's really interesting is that they say there has been a large increase in Asian tourists.

"The Maldives attracted the majority of their visitors from Europe, with most tourists coming from the UK, Italy, Germany and France; there was also a marked increase, however, in the number of Asian visitors, in particular from Japan and China".
That's quite interesting since the main attraction of the Maldives is the diving and beaches.
Managaha - Photo Dawn Hammermeister

I wonder if there is a way to win back some of those Japanese tourist traveling such a long distance to get to the Maldives. Of course we could just wait until those islands no longer exist due to the rising waters of our planet. But then again why wait?